I leaned back in my bed, trembling. Who was that? Why did he come straight to me? And that medallion – what does it mean? Surely, he is a connection to my Jerusalem omen. I must find him.
Those were the only thoughts that accompanied me the following days, as my steps led me higher into the mountains of Galicia. I passed Foncebadon and the iconic Cruz de Ferro, and was rounding a corner on that majestic day when, suddenly, the sound of classical music filled the air. I stopped, just to make sure I wasn’t hearing things. This was, after all, the Camino and all manner of the unexpected was to be expected. The music played on, and as I continued ahead I began to make out the occasional clanging of a bell.
Finally, I saw it: a hobbled-together shelter bustling with pilgrims, ducks strolling the grounds, and the happy countenance of a bearded man dressed in white pants, a white tunic with a large Crusader-like cross stitched across the chest, a flowing white cape, and a sword in hand. A hand-painted sign indicated that I was a mere 222 kilometers from Santiago, 2,475 kilometers from Rome, and, to my shock, 5,000 kilometers from Jerusalem.
I had arrived in Manjarin, and the enigmatic man was Tomas, the Knight Templar who ran this refugio.
Hospitalero Portrait: Tomas from The Camino Documentary on Vimeo.
With barely-contained enthusiasm, I approached Tomas to introduce myself; but he hurried past me, leading a small group of pilgrims to a small cross near the entrance. I wasn’t sure what was happening, but joined the small group that now enfolded him before the cross. He spoke in solemn, confident tones, and with the few words that I could understand – ángeles, paz, Jerusalén – knew that he was praying for peace in Jerusalem. A rush of certainty, undefined by words but confirmed by tears, coursed through me, telling me that I had found my next steps.
Those steps would become more certain as I continued to Santiago de Compostela. By the time I arrived in Finisterre, and the end of my Camino, I knew that I would be walking to Jerusalem, along this Way of the Soul, to know my own soul, and to know peace.
But I had so many questions, and couldn’t help but feel that my answers lay with Tomas. So, I returned to Manjarin to work as a hospitalera, a volunteer who helps serve the pilgrims, and decided to use that time to build my Spanish and find a way to communicate with the always-busy Tomas. Tomas gave me a knowing smile when he saw me and, in his warm embrace, only said that he was expecting me.
The days and nights passed quickly. The rustic setting, with no electricity, toilets or running water was challenging, but I found pleasure in the simplicity of welcoming pilgrims, making conversation, and helping to prepare and clean up the morning and evening meals. It was physically tiring because of the large number of pilgrims in August, and emotionally intense. At the daily prayers that Tomas held, I would often find myself weeping, my fears of walking alone to Jerusalem completely overwhelming me.
To be continued . . .
Pilgrim Mony Dojeiji
Canada
walkingforpeace.com
Completed first Camino in 2001 Mony Dojeiji is a pilgrim who walked the Camino Francés in 2001 and later that year embarked on a 5000-kilometer, 13-country, 13-month walk for peace with fellow Spanish pilgrim Alberto Agraso. Details of their journey can be found on their website http://walkingforpeace.com.